We are one week away from our departure to the Italian alpine region and the weather may prove an issue. Today and for a few weeks, there is and has been some very unsettled weather in the monte bianco area. ...http://www.chamonix.com/weather,11,en.html. Thunder and lightening and the like.
Our guide, Nicolo, advises that the Italian route may not be an option...there is heavy snow and actually quite cold up there. We may have to do "le Mont Blanc"...eh oui! C'est comme ca!
The other option potentially open to us is Bernina in the central Italian alps. We attempted this a few years back (Rory will provide the exact dates! :)) but were caught on a ridge with very soft snow. We approached from the Swiss side of the alps via Pontresina. The soft, deep snow on the ridge meant that every step we took sunk us to our knee or higher. On a rising slope, this took us way too long and we didn't progress sufficiently and so aborted.
The trip back to the refuge would prove precarious in parts as the abseiling was over hidden ledges....leaps of faith and gesticulations (they were Italian) from our guides got us through it.
Here's still hoping that "Il monte bianco" or "Le Mont Blanc" lets us in.
Who's going?
We are four Irishmen: Myself (John), Hugh, Rory and Shane. Shane is joining a team that has hiked many peaks in Ireland/UK as well as the French and Italian alps. We also made a trip in 2007 to Mount Elbrus in Russia, which was successful for Hugh and Rory, but not for me as I was hit with a pulmonary edema on the night before/morning of the summit. My highest ever altitude is 4800m and was on the Elbrus.
We will be assisted in summiting by Nicoló Berzi, a Milan-based alpine guide- I would strongly recommend him. We have used his expertise before on Monte Bianco ('05/'06), Bernina('08) and Val di Mello('08).
Why?
For myself, Hugh and Shane, we are reaching our 40th birthday this year. (Rory is of an ever slightly maturer vintage)
Personally, I have always wanted to do Monte Bianco. We tried in 2005 but the temperamental alpine microclimate said no- so having done our acclimatisation hikes...we decided to kick back and do a tour of the delights of Verona, Venice and Lake Garda- another story! Hugh and Rory subsequently summited it Bianco in 2006- I was training/ competing in triathlon that year and decided to focus on it.
Why not Mont Blanc?
As with any mountain, there are many approaches and sub-routes- each with their own positives and negatives, challenges and dangers. We are planning to approach this peak from the Italian side. Monte Bianco is actually shared; its peak sits on the French-Italian border. Allora! Se chiama Monte Bianco per noi!
When?
We are leaving Dublin on August 3rd and returning on August 10th
What's the itinerary?
There are a few plans. She may say no once again- but we want to have alternatives this time.
Acclimatisation hikes:
We are planning to do two acclimisation hikes: La Tresanta (3609m) and Gran Paradiso (4061m). Acclimatisation is vital to avoid altitude sickness; if you live at sea level (we're Dublin based), it's critical.
> Wednesday Aug 3rd: Arrive in Milan; Travel to Valsavalrenche car park and ascend to Vittorio Emmanuelle hut (2775m)
> Thursday Aug 4th: Summit La Tresanta (3609m); descend and sleep in VE hut
> Friday Aug 5th: Summit Gran Paradiso; descend to hut and then to car park. Travel to Courmayeur. Sleep in Courmayeur
After that, it depends on Monte Bianco:
If the weather permits:
> Saturday Aug 6th: Meet with Nicolo & Daniele (2nd guide; alpine guiding rules state: 1 guide for every 2 people). We will ascend to the new Gonella Hut (3072m).
> Sunday Aug 7th: Summit to MB. via trois mont blancs route to Courmayeur for R&R.
> Monday Aug 8th: Stay in Courmayeur for R&R
> Tues Aug 9th: R&R. More R&R in Courmayeur
> Wednesday Aug 10th: Return via Milan (Malpensa)
If the weather does not allow:
If Monte Bianco weather is not safe, two options are open:
